Società del Vino: A Tuscan Castle, a Chianti Riserva, and 600 Years of History

Castello di Oliveto Chianti Riserva 2022 — A Taste of Tuscany's Past

Some bottles have an interesting grape. Others have an interesting winemaker.

And then there are bottles that come with nearly 600 years of history.

This time, Società del Vino takes us back to Tuscany, to a hilltop castle just outside Castelfiorentino, southwest of Florence.

The wine is a 2022 Castello di Oliveto Chianti Riserva DOCG, produced by Fattoria Oliveto.

It's a traditional Tuscan red built around Sangiovese, with Merlot and Colorino contributing to the blend.

But the story behind this bottle goes well beyond the vineyard.

We're talking about a Renaissance castle, the Medici family, visiting popes, and even a possible connection to the architect who designed Florence's famous cathedral dome.

Not bad for a bottle of Chianti.

Castello di Oliveto — A Castle with Quite a History

The story begins in 1424.

That was the year the wealthy Florentine Pucci family built Castello di Oliveto in the hills overlooking the Valdelsa countryside. And this wasn't simply a country house.

The castle was built as a fortified residence, complete with defensive walls, towers, battlements, and a moat. Its name comes from the olive groves surrounding the property. Oliveto literally refers to an olive grove.

Over the centuries, the castle welcomed some pretty remarkable visitors.

Lorenzo de' Medici, better known as Lorenzo the Magnificent, was among its notable guests.

So were Pope Leo X, Pope Clement VII, and Pope Paul III.

And here's something particularly interesting.

A study published in 2015 attributed the castle's design to Filippo Brunelleschi, the famous Renaissance architect responsible for the magnificent dome of Florence's Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The attribution isn't universally established, but the architectural similarities are intriguing. The castle's history even extends into World War II, when American General Mark Clark used it as a headquarters in 1944. Today, the property remains an agricultural estate producing wine and olive oil, while also welcoming visitors.

So when you open a bottle from Castello di Oliveto, you're drinking wine from an estate whose history stretches back to the Italian Renaissance.

That's a pretty good conversation starter.

The Wine — Castello di Oliveto Chianti Riserva 2022

Chianti DOCG Riserva · Castelfiorentino, Tuscany · 13.5% alcohol

The wine itself is a blend of three grape varieties:

• Sangiovese — The backbone of the wine, providing acidity, cherry flavors, and structure.

• Merlot — Adds roundness, softer fruit characteristics, and body.

• Colorino — A traditional Tuscan grape known for contributing deep color and additional structure.

Sangiovese is the grape most closely associated with Chianti, and it's responsible for much of what makes these wines so distinctive.

That combination of red fruit, acidity, earthy characteristics, and tannins is what makes Chianti such a natural companion to food.

The winery grows its grapes in the hills around Castelfiorentino and Montespertoli, at approximately 150 meters above sea level.

The grapes are fermented separately in cement and stainless steel vats before being blended.

The result is a wine intended to balance traditional Tuscan character with a softer, more approachable texture.

What Does Riserva Actually Mean?

Here's something worth understanding when shopping for Italian wine.

You'll often see Chianti, Chianti Superiore, Chianti Riserva, and Chianti Classico on store shelves. They aren't all the same thing.

For Chianti DOCG, the term Riserva indicates that the wine has undergone a longer minimum aging period before release. Chianti Riserva must be aged for at least two years, including a minimum period in bottle.That additional maturation can help soften the tannins and develop more complex aromas and flavors.

But there's another important distinction.

Chianti and Chianti Classico are two separate DOCG appellations.

Chianti Classico comes from the historic production zone between Florence and Siena.

Chianti DOCG covers a larger collection of growing areas throughout Tuscany.

And while Chianti Classico is famous for the black rooster, or Gallo Nero, on its bottles, that symbol isn't a general designation for every Chianti wine. Our Castello di Oliveto Riserva is classified as Chianti DOCG, not Chianti Classico. That doesn't make it inferior.

It simply means the grapes come from a different officially recognized production area.

And that's one of the things I enjoy about Italian wine. The more you learn about the classifications, the more interesting the bottles become.

What's in the Glass

Castello di Oliveto describes its Chianti Riserva as a brilliant ruby-red wine that can develop garnet tones as it matures. The winery's tasting profile highlights black cherry, sour cherry, blueberry, and floral aromas of violet and iris. There's also a spicy character that adds complexity. On the palate, the wine is described as elegant and enveloping, with silky tannins and a long finish. Those are the characteristics I'd look for when opening this 2022 vintage. Sangiovese should provide the freshness and cherry character, while Merlot contributes a rounder texture. Colorino helps reinforce the wine's structure and color.

At 13.5% alcohol, this isn't an especially heavy Tuscan red, but it should still have enough body to stand up to a substantial meal. I'd serve it around 62–65°F, preferably in a reasonably large red wine glass.

And depending on how the wine opens, I might give it 20–30 minutes in a decanter.

What I'd Eat with It

This is where Chianti really shines.

Italian wines, particularly Tuscan reds, have a wonderful way of making food taste better.

And this one practically begs for a good meal.

My first choice would be bistecca alla Fiorentina, the famous thick-cut Tuscan steak, grilled over high heat and finished with olive oil and salt.

The wine's acidity and tannins should work beautifully with the richness of the beef.

But you don't need an enormous steak to enjoy it.

I'd also pair it with:

• Pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale — Wide pasta ribbons with a slow-cooked wild boar sauce.

• Lasagna alla Bolognese — Rich meat sauce, pasta, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

• Osso buco — Slow-braised veal shanks with a deeply savory sauce.

• Aged Pecorino Toscano — A simple cheese pairing that lets the wine speak for itself.

Sometimes the simplest pairing is the best one.

Frank's Take

What makes this bottle interesting to me is the connection between the wine and the place it comes from. I've always enjoyed discovering wines that tell a story about their region.

And Tuscany certainly has plenty of stories to tell. With Castello di Oliveto, we're talking about an estate that was already standing when Renaissance Florence was at the center of European art and architecture.

It's survived wars, changing political powers, and centuries of Italian history.

And today, the estate continues to produce wine from the same Tuscan countryside.

I also like the idea of a Chianti Riserva that doesn't have to be an expensive collector's bottle.

The producer lists this wine at approximately €14 in its Italian online shop, making it a relatively accessible introduction to traditional Tuscan wine.

That doesn't mean it should be compared directly with an expensive Brunello di Montalcino or a highly collectible Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

It's a different wine with a different purpose.

And that's perfectly fine.

Sometimes I want a bottle that I can open with a good homemade Italian dinner without turning the evening into a formal wine tasting.

A well-made Chianti Riserva fits that occasion beautifully.

A Little Tuscany in Every Glass

There's something special about Italian wine.

It's rarely just about what's in the bottle.

It's about the people, the land, the food, and the history.

This 2022 Castello di Oliveto Chianti Riserva brings all of those things together.

A traditional Sangiovese-based red from the Florentine hills.

A castle built in 1424.

A property connected to Renaissance nobility, popes, and centuries of Tuscan history.

And a wine that belongs on the dinner table alongside good food and good company.

That's what Società del Vino is all about.

Exploring the stories behind the bottles, discovering new wines, and enjoying the experience along the way.

Salute!

— Frank