Società del Vino: The Little Cherry of Tuscany — Discovering Ciliegiolo

A 2024 Ciliegiolo from Maremma Toscana

Everyone knows Chianti. Most Italian wine lovers have heard of Brunello di Montalcino. And if you've spent much time exploring Tuscany, you've probably come across Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. But what about Ciliegiolo? This time, Società del Vino takes us to the southern coast of Tuscany, where a lesser-known red grape is beginning to get some well-deserved attention.

Our bottle is a 2024 Ciliegiolo Maremma Toscana DOC, produced by Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano. It's a 13% alcohol red wine from a region better known for Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany's distinctive local expression of Sangiovese. But Ciliegiolo has its own personality. And perhaps the most interesting thing about this grape is its relationship to Sangiovese itself. Because the story of Ciliegiolo might just change how you think about Tuscany's most famous grape.

Ciliegiolo — The Little Cherry

Let's start with the name.

Ciliegiolo comes from the Italian word ciliegia, meaning cherry.

And that's a pretty good description of what this grape is all about.

Ciliegiolo is known for its cherry-red color, bright red fruit aromas, and approachable character. Unlike some of Tuscany's more powerful reds, Ciliegiolo generally produces wines that are fresh, fruity, and relatively soft in tannins. Think cherries, raspberries, red plums, and sometimes a little spice. It's the kind of wine that doesn't necessarily need years in a cellar before you can enjoy it. And while Ciliegiolo has traditionally been used as a blending grape, particularly alongside Sangiovese, more producers are now bottling it as the featured variety. That's an important development. For years, many Italian grape varieties were known primarily for what they contributed to blends. Today, winemakers are increasingly giving these grapes an opportunity to stand on their own. And Ciliegiolo is a perfect example.

Is Ciliegiolo Related to Sangiovese?

Here's where things get interesting.

For years, researchers have studied the genetic relationship between Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. And what they've discovered is fascinating. The two grapes have a direct parent-offspring relationship. But identifying which grape came first has been the subject of scientific debate. A 2007 genetic study suggested that Ciliegiolo was one of Sangiovese's parents, along with a rare southern Italian grape called Calabrese di Montenuovo.

Other research reached a different conclusion.

A more comprehensive genetic study published in 2021 identified Ciliegiolo as an offspring of Sangiovese and another grape called Moscato Violetto. So while researchers have established that these grapes are closely related, their exact family history has been more complicated than originally believed. I find that particularly interesting.

Sangiovese is responsible for some of Italy's most famous wines, including Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And here we have a grape with a direct genetic connection to that famous variety, yet one that most wine drinkers have probably never encountered. It's another reminder that Italian wine has an incredible amount of diversity hiding behind the familiar names.

Maremma — Tuscany's Wild Coastal Wine Country

When most people picture Tuscany, they imagine rolling hills, cypress trees, medieval villages, and vineyards surrounding Florence and Siena. And that's certainly part of Tuscany.

But Maremma is different. Located in southwestern Tuscany, primarily in the province of Grosseto, Maremma stretches from inland hills toward the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Historically, much of this area was marshland. In fact, the region's name is associated with its old coastal marshes, which were gradually drained and transformed into productive agricultural land. Today, Maremma is one of Tuscany's most interesting wine regions.

The climate is generally warmer than the higher elevations of Chianti Classico, with Mediterranean influences from the nearby sea. Warm days help grapes ripen, while coastal breezes can moderate temperatures and contribute to healthy vineyard conditions.

And this environment is particularly well suited to Ciliegiolo. The grape prefers relatively warm, dry conditions and has become especially associated with the hills around Scansano, Magliano, and Grosseto. In fact, more than half of Tuscany's Ciliegiolo vineyard area is located in the province of Grosseto.

That's a pretty strong connection between a grape and a place.

The Winery — Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano

The producer behind our bottle is Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano.

Founded in 1972, the winery is a cooperative of local grape growers based in Scansano.

And like some of the other Italian cooperatives we've explored in Società del Vino, its story is about growers working together. Rather than every vineyard owner operating a separate winery, the cooperative brings together grapes, resources, and winemaking expertise to produce wines that represent the region. The cooperative is particularly well known for Morellino di Scansano, the local DOCG wine made predominantly from Sangiovese.

But it also produces wines from other varieties that thrive in Maremma.

Including Ciliegiolo. And that's what makes this bottle interesting.

Instead of focusing on the region's most famous grape, we're exploring one of its traditional supporting players. A grape that deserves a little time in the spotlight.

The Wine — Ciliegiolo Maremma Toscana DOC 2024

Maremma Toscana DOC · Scansano, Tuscany · Predominantly Ciliegiolo · 13% alcohol

Our bottle comes from the 2024 vintage.

The back label identifies the grapes as principalmente Ciliegiolo, meaning predominantly Ciliegiolo. That's worth pointing out because the label doesn't claim the wine is made from 100% Ciliegiolo. Under Italian DOC regulations, a wine labeled with a grape variety may be permitted to include a limited percentage of other authorized varieties. The important point is that Ciliegiolo is the defining grape in this wine. And its style is quite different from the more structured Sangiovese-based wines many people associate with Tuscany.

The winery recommends serving this bottle at 12–14°C, or approximately 54–57°F.

That's cooler than the temperature at which many people serve red wine. And there's a good reason for it. A slight chill can emphasize the fresh fruit, lively acidity, and refreshing character of lighter-bodied reds. So don't be afraid to put this bottle in the refrigerator for a short time before opening it.

What's in the Glass

Ciliegiolo is known for its bright ruby-red color and expressive red fruit aromas.

The classic characteristics include fresh cherry, raspberry, plum, and sometimes hints of black pepper and Mediterranean herbs.On the palate, expect a wine that leans toward fresh fruit rather than heavy oak or powerful tannins. The tannins are generally softer than those found in a young, structured Chianti or Brunello.That makes Ciliegiolo particularly approachable.And at 13% alcohol, this bottle should have enough body to feel substantial without becoming overly heavy.What I find appealing about this style is its versatility.

It's a red wine that can work with food, but it doesn't necessarily require a big steak or a rich meat sauce. And because it's designed to be served slightly chilled, it can be especially enjoyable during warmer weather.

A Tuscan red wine in the summertime?

Absolutely.

What I'd Eat with It

The winery recommends cured meats, fresh and semi-aged cheeses, flavorful pasta dishes, and white meats. That gives us a pretty good idea of the wine's intended personality.

My first choice would be a traditional Italian antipasto board. Prosciutto, salami, fresh mozzarella, Pecorino Toscano, olives, and some good crusty bread.

The wine's bright fruit and gentle tannins should complement the saltiness of the cured meats without overpowering the cheeses.

I'd also try it with:

• Pasta alla Norma — Eggplant, tomato sauce, basil, and ricotta salata.

• Chicken cacciatore — Chicken braised with tomatoes, herbs, and vegetables.

• Pappardelle with mushrooms — Earthy mushrooms and fresh pasta.

• Grilled pork tenderloin — Especially with rosemary and garlic.

• Pizza Margherita — Fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil.

  
  

And because this wine can be served slightly chilled, I think it would also be excellent alongside a casual outdoor lunch.

A little antipasto, some fresh bread, a few cheeses, and a glass of Ciliegiolo.

That sounds like a pretty good afternoon to me.

Frank's Take

One of the things I've come to appreciate about Italian wine is how many grape varieties exist beyond the famous ones.

We all know Sangiovese.

It's the backbone of some of Tuscany's greatest wines.

But Ciliegiolo is a reminder that there's much more to discover.

What interests me about this bottle is that it comes from the same general region as Morellino di Scansano, yet offers an entirely different perspective on Tuscan red wine.

Instead of the more structured, tannic style often associated with Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo emphasizes freshness, red fruit, and approachability. And I particularly like the winery's recommendation to serve it slightly chilled. That's something many people don't associate with red wine. But temperature can make a significant difference in how a wine presents itself. Serve a lighter red too warm, and the alcohol can become more noticeable while the fruit loses some of its freshness. Cool it slightly, and those bright cherry and raspberry characteristics can really come alive. It's also interesting that this wine comes from a cooperative. There's a tendency to think that interesting wines must come from small, exclusive estates. But Italy has a long tradition of successful wine cooperatives that help preserve local grape varieties and make regional wines accessible to a wider audience.

And that's something worth appreciating.

A Different Side of Tuscany

Tuscany has no shortage of famous wines.

Chianti Classico.

Brunello di Montalcino.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

The Super Tuscans of Bolgheri.

But sometimes the most interesting discoveries are the bottles that don't have the famous names.

This 2024 Ciliegiolo from Maremma Toscana gives us a chance to explore a grape with a fascinating genetic connection to Sangiovese, a long history in central Italy, and a personality all its own.

It's a reminder that not every Tuscan red needs to be powerful, expensive, or aged for years.

Some wines are meant to be opened young, served with good food, and enjoyed with friends.

And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

In fact, that sounds exactly like what Società del Vino is all about.

Salute!

— Frank